I saw a few guys asking about Walk-Back Tuning in some of the other topics. I'll pass on some info I had already found over on Archery Talk.

Walk-Back Tuning

Pick a spot on your target that is somewhere near the top center. Scoot back to 20 yards and shoot at the spot with your 20 yard pin. Don't worry if it's not a bullseye. We're TUNING right now. SIGHTING IN comes later. Now scoot back and shoot at 30 and 40 yards but keep aiming at the spot with your 20 yard pin. This is important. You should now have a string of arrows running up and down the target. (Note: If it makes you feel better, shoot a few arrows at each distance to get three small groups to look at.)

You may have something that looks like this:
Click to view attachment

What you'd like to see is your arrows line up in a verticle line. If your arrows look like " / " or " \ ", then pick a direction and move your arrow rest 1/16th inch and repeat the shot process. If the pattern gets straighter (more vertical), then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction. If the pattern gets more crooked, then adjust in the other direction. Again, do not worry if the arrows are not hitting on line with the spot at this point. Just keep firing arrows and keep adjusting the arrow rest position until you get a vertical pattern of arrows. At this point, LOCK down the arrow rest setting. Your centershot is perfect.

Now your patterns might look more like this:
Click to view attachment

Your vertical pattern of arrows may not be lined up with the spot. Now is when you adjust your sight ring windage. Pick a direction and adjust the sight ring windage 1/16th of an inch. Repeat the test and keep adjusting until your shots are in line with the verticle "string" from the aiming spot.

Windage and center shot are now perfect.

Hope this helps!

Thanks a lot for posting that. I will give it a try tonight. Very good job of explaining also.
One question, will it work with round arrows too? Sorry about that, sometimes I can't help myself.

Good post showmehunter

Don't you recognize broadhead hits when you see them? That big ol triangle is what my 3-blade rages will be doing this fall! Anyways, I hope so, because I got them last summer and they are still in brand new condition. Good thing for rifle season last year or it would have been tag soup.

neat idea..defintely gonna have to give this a try later. thanks for sharing!

Great Idea. My doc says no pulling back bow for another 4 weeks. I didn't tell him I did it yesterday.

Hey Showme, can you do this after paper tuning?

I know you didn't ask me, but I'll throw out my opinion.

Paper tuning is a starting point. But in the end, all it is doing is telling you if you arrow is flying straight out of the bow. Walk-back tuning will tune your bow to its optimum performance at all yardages. An incorrectly aligned rest or poor nock point won't make much of a difference if you always shoot at 20 yards on flat ground, but when you shoot from longer yardages, or up or down hill, out of a treestand, etc., it will start to cause problems. Walk back tuning eliminates those problems.

It will also get things set so that your field points and broadheads are hitting in the same place. The luxury of being able to switch from field points to broadheads and back without moving a rest or adjusting your sight is great. I haven't moved my sight since I got things tuned before deer season last year, and I shot field points all winter, and back to broadheads for turkey season, and now back to field points for 3D.

Plus, I'd be willing to bet that if you walk back tune and get everything set up right, you could go back to paper tune and you'd be getting bullet holes.

Thanks Hoggin, glad you have your thoughts. After I timed my cam yesterday I paper tuned and was nock low, perfect left and right. I had to move my nocking point because of the cable adjustment I made. I am going to paper tune again then definitely do the walk back. I just didn't know if it made difference which one came first and it sounds like it doesn't as long as you do it. Thanks!

I just tried this method and something is not really working that great. some shots I get a diagonal line and some a zig-zag. My guess is its just me. I only made one adjustment to the arrow rest and took 6 more shots and the diagonal got more diagonal so maybe it is working, I just dont understand the zig-zag groups. Its kinda cold outside right now(40 and cloudy) and my fingers got cold, so I thought I'll try again tomarrow.
Well heres my FIRST set of ques.
When the bow is properly tuned will the string-arrow rest-and pins of the sight be in line with each other or is it OK if they're not?(as long as its shooting good)
Next(and this is also a reason I stopped shooting this evening, after 15 shots-'cause I dont know if its true)Will a person start to get fatiged after 12-15 shots and should stop for the day?

Here are the results(not so good)

Well today was Much better. All shots were with the 20yd pin(pin #1). I think I'll leave pin #1 alone for 20 & 30yd shots and now work on adjusting pin #2 for 40yd shots. Maybe I'm now done with the Walk-Back Tuning.